Part 4

We woke up to snow on monday, it got cold sleeping out!

Luckily, I was sleeping under Mike's truck after I woke up in the middle of the night to put all of our stuff inside and after it started raining.

Mike on a great pitch on Journey Home. Miles of 5.10 climbing on this classic.

Mike on the heady first pitch of the Black Canyon classic Journey Home. This was our second route of the day and it was a great time. It was still a little in the sun when we began at about 330pm but it was in the shade the whole time afterward.

My banana's got all heated up on the dashboard in the truck while we climbed the Scenic Cruise. They turned to mush. Yuck!

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.

Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem
And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net, http://www.arcteryx.com, http://camp-usa.com, http://sterlingrope.com, http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com, http://www.wunderground.com, http://climbing.com, http://rockandice.com, http://deadpointmag.com, http://urbanclimbermag.com, http://andrewburr.com, http://ladzinski.com

READ MORE - Part 4

Part 3

Looking down at Mike B (low right) coming across the traverse on Scenic Cruise

Bloody hand! I cut it removing a nut from the pitch below! Oops.

Mike early on the Scenic Cruise.

Mike coming up our second pitch of the Scenic Cruise.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon. Rob Pizem And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net/ http://www.arcteryx.com/ http://camp-usa.com/ http://sterlingrope.com/ http://coloradomountainjournal.com/ http://www.wunderground.com/ http://climbing.com/ http://rockandice.com/ http://deadpointmag.com/ http://urbanclimbermag.com/ http://andrewburr.com/ http://ladzinski.com/

READ MORE - Part 3

Fun de chichuune

Yesterday I managed to do something I've been dreaming of trying since 2007 when I first saw it. I climbed the mega line of the Grande Grotta, Fun de chichuune 8a. The route is 40m long and it's essentially a roof for most of its length. As you can see in the photos below, you climb through blobs and stalactites, interspersed with scary blank sections. 

It is #8 on this topo. 

There were tons of kneebars and other creative rests along the way. I spent most of the time hanging upside down by my knees. The weight of the quickdraws felt like it might pull my harness off. There are 28 clips.

It was a hot day so I was sweating heaps and the tufas were often damp or outright dripping with water. I managed to remove my shirt on one of the rests at halfway and use it as a towel. Later, towards the end, I had to thoroughly chalk up my forehead. That's a first.

Most of these pics are in the first third when it's not so steep (!)

 

Not even halfway yet!

 

Can you spot me here? I'm at about the 3/4 point. 

And the best part, it was onsight. The first try. Meaning I thankfully didn't have to try the whole enormous beast for a second time, which would be crushing. You might cry.

Route pics © C Vaillancourt 2010

READ MORE - Fun de chichuune

El Cap Day in the Black Part 2

Mike B was trying out the new CAMP Stratos harness. I heard no complaints on the many hanging belays that we were subjected to on this day.

CAMP NANO biners and draws, the lightest and the best on the market. I didn't even know that I had them on my Arcteryx R-320 harness. So light and easy to use.

The second rap to the bottom of the Cruise Gully.

Looking down the Cruise Gully.

The arrowhead was found by Lee after climbing on Saturday. Matt (on the left and he are friends from Golden that happened to be climbing this weekend).

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.

Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.

Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net/ http://www.arcteryx.com/ http://camp-usa.com/ http://sterlingrope.com/ http://coloradomountainjournal.com/ http://www.wunderground.com/ http://climbing.com/ http://rockandice.com/ http://deadpointmag.com/ http://urbanclimbermag.com/ http://andrewburr.com/ http://ladzinski.com/

READ MORE - El Cap Day in the Black Part 2

El Cap day in the Black Canyon Part 1

Mike B and I arrived to find the North rim's campground full. We managed to meet some folks that we knew and squeezed on in.

That day the sky was full of smoke, ash and the stink of a forest fire burning miles away in Norwood, CO. The soot was blocking the sun on an otherwise crystal clear blue sky day.

What was left of the sun over the imposing Black Canyon.

The hitchhikers that we picked up in Eagle, CO. They were heading to Grand Junction and thought it would be cool to see the Black. They were vagabonds from California with a lot to say!

Heading from Paonia to the Black in the Ash Cloud from the fires in Norwood.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.

Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net/ http://www.arcteryx.com/ http://camp-usa.com/ http://sterlingrope.com/ http://coloradomountainjournal.com/ http://www.wunderground.com/ http://climbing.com/ http://rockandice.com/ http://deadpointmag.com/ http://urbanclimbermag.com/ http://andrewburr.com/ http://ladzinski.com

READ MORE - El Cap day in the Black Canyon Part 1