HOT ACTRESS

Sikati Cave

Last day climbing in Kalymnos! What to do to make it memorable? Sikati Cave!

What to say? Epic crag. Huge hole in the ground, 100m deep at the lowest point, covered in stalactites. My first trip here in 2008 I did the runout classic Lolita 7a. This time I had to step it up and onsighted the long Mort Aux Chevres 7b and also Morgan and its extension Adam, given 8a in the guidebook(!)

The first pitch (given 7c) is mostly very steep 6c-7a climbing to an admittedly hard section. It probably is 7c. Then the extension is only another 8m of climbing and you can start it fresh because there's a great bridging rest at the first anchor. I won't spoil it for you, but it's definitely worth having a try for the extension. I was happy I did.

Me on Morgan, still a ways to go. T-shirt carried as sweat towel.

I was so zorched after that effort I bit the dust.

And then it was time to say farewell to Kalymnos and hello to Turkey. Thanks Kaly, see you next year!

Tehipite trip (contd)

The Kings Canyon drains to the west and the valley has about 3000-4000ft of elevation change. The native americans used to winter at the bottom due to the warmer temperatures and good fishing.

From camp we had to hike to the wall and this is just a piece of the 1300ft top half of the wall. As far as I know, no one has climbed the dihedral in this photo.

Mike and Ari setting up our line to hang the food. We had two haul bags of food for our ten days of camping. One was filled with meals and the other with breakfast and snacks. We saw bear tracks and scat while on the trip but no bears and pretty much nothing but birds. The area was burned by fire two years ago and there is very little food for anything to eat. Plus the fire must have killed many of the animals. At the beginning of the trip it took all three of us to hang the food (because it was so heavy) and by the last day or two it could be done by just one.

Our first recon on the first day to get to the wall. You can see the upper part of the dome (Tehipite Dome) that is over 1000ft of rock you are looking at. Plus notice the burn damage and the grasses coming back into the environment very slowly. We needed to use surveying tape (bright orange) to mark our path from camp to the wall because it took over an hour to get there hiking in the mornings and at night. It was too easy to get lost (as we did once) with out marking the trail. In the end, we removed all the tape and found the path of least resistance. The hike wasn't too bad, it was the mosquitoes that were no fun and the 1000ft gulley that we had to descend and hike out everyday.

Me at the last major river crossing. I chose to wear that long sleeved hoody on the horse because the bugs were so bad on the ride in and out of the base camp.
Have a great day!

piz : )

Maple Canyon Climbing: The Beta Page

Planning a trip to Maple? Here's our thoughts from spending two weeks in this cobble-filled canyon...

Camping

You can book online and pay $8 a night. The benefit of this is you reserve your campsite (most are booked solid on the weekends). You also get one of the 12 "nice" campsites that have firepits, several flat tent spots each, big table and shade. It's also possible to just turn up, and if one of the $8 sites is free, you can book and pay, but more interestingly for dirtbags are the $3 per night campsites. These are a first come first served basis and are great for long termers. They're not reservable. They are less deluxe, not having a table, and might be a big hike to the nearest toilet.

Amenities

There are several pit toilets located within the campground. They are kept in quite good order.
There are no showers.
There is no water. Bring your own.
You'll get no phone reception anywhere in the canyon.

Laundry

Nearest and best is the coin laundry behind the Fast Trax service station in Mt Pleasant.

Food and water

In Ephraim, you can buy groceries at either Kent's Market (very cheap specials for dirtbags) or Wal-mart. Nephi and Mt Pleasant also have supermarkets.
For rest day meals, there is a Subway and McDonalds in Ephraim. Nephi also has a Wendy's. I recommend Roy's Pizza (formerly known as Fat Jack's) in Ephraim or Cavalier Pizza in Mt Pleasant. And for something sweet, you can't go past Ephraim's Malt Shop for great shakes and slushes.
Water is easily obtainable at the service station adjacent to Ephraim's Wal-mart (near the air hose).

Wifi

Various unsecured home routers on main street of Manti, good for picking up emails on the move, or updating your scorecard ;)

For longer stints you have two options:

McDonalds in Ephraim has power, free wifi and endless soda. Use the ice machine to top up your esky on the way out.
Computer lab in the Snow College in Ephraim. Drive around Snow College until you spot a bell tower. Park there. The building left of the bell tower is the computer lab and has free Internet access on very fast computers.

Showers

There are $2 hot showers and an indoor pool in the Gymnasium/Recreation centre at Snow College in Ephraim.

Guidebook

There is an online guide available (link) for $12. It is not a new guide. It is over 10 years old but is the best that is on offer currently. Supplement this with the online information on Mountain Project. Ask around for info on new sectors if you're interested.

Climbing

Routes tend to be endurance affairs. Holds tend to be open grips, but there is some crimping to be found where cobbles have fallen out. A 60m rope is fine. There is enough to occupy the 5.10 climber (unlike Rifle), and plenty if you climb harder than this. Because of rockfall, helmets are good. Especially for belaying. And for routes 5.12 and above, you're going to want your kneebar pads.

Grades

Grades of routes are all over the shop at Maple. For example, routes at the great cliff "The Minimum" are so ridiculously soft I'm surprised the bolts don't fall out. And yet, routes in Box Canyon are often quite stout. The best thing to do is take the grades with a large pinch of salt, and if you want to see what consensus is saying about a route, check it out on 8a.nu's Maple ticklist. And if it's obviously soft, don't take the higher grade ;)

If stuff changes, email me and I'll keep this post updated.

Great Places to Go Climbing Group

Climbing has much to offer. achieve a sense of fulfillment and joy at the top are difficult to beat. Today, many social groups in the 'packages' are looking for pure joy of rock climbing and team building experiences. Climbing can help build teamwork and friendships.
There are a number of sites in the UK for internal and external groups in the form of climbing. You can view the days activities, normally should be fully recognized trainers offer beginners the chance to learn to navigate safely through a rock. These days are good for your corporate team building, although the costs 50-120 pounds a person can. Here are some sites that you want to attract in your group could get said.
Indoor climbing If you are just a little bit of climbing with a limited effort will be indoor climbing is a good opportunity to pick up. Lakeland is an indoor climbing course, that the private sessions for groups and offering families. Located in Kendal in the Lake District this property offers beginners courses and individual sessions to build skills.

Peak District Climbing in the Peak District began with the pioneers in 1890 and has been expanded so that every weekend, thousands of climbers on the rock. The peak has a wide range of large and small rocks, and with over 10,000 registered increases - probably do not know exactly how much - and the proximity of some major urban areas means that it is a very popular place to climb.
The peak offers a wealth of climbing for all. Valkyrie - Froggatt Edge, north of Cima is a good place tiles and rocks Chew Valley may offer strenuous tiles instead of hard routes.

Wales Wales has a land far more interesting than the mostly flat UK. There are many places to go to centers. Hot spots are Snowdonia and North Pembroke.
Dinas Mot one of the best rock Llanberis (Snowdonia). On the south side, but rarely reaches the sun and is better for a hot summer day of sunshine waiting. There are different types of climbing with spurs, and the roads are long and multi-pitch. The hilly area is 300-500 meters high, with over 100 routes of all levels.
The most popular and best reef in North Pembroke, Carreg-y-Barcud. The rock here is compact sandstone slabs of large sizes in uniform, thin edges and small tears. General face of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest flat area and a wide choice of routes from E1 upwards.
Other factors When one day climbing to organize a group, you must take into account other factors. Transportation to and from the center, accommodation for a stay of more than a day and food products. If the group is large enough, it might be easier for a mini-bus or coach hire. You must, however, given the size of the vehicle and check their sites you have in mind access to contribute. In basic terms that are the center of climbing on the housing site, or want to find a nearby hotel.

Climbing Techniques - Come Forward for Success

In mountaineering, as in every other area of human activity, you will only reach its full potential if they embrace the concept of failure. Sounds paradoxical, I know, but too many climbers in their comfort zone where you can not stay ... and not much better.
The climb was the old adage: "The leader never falls". And with terrible climbing protection, said that in a good way. Even today, in certain situations, you can still make good sense. There are X-rated rooms in the United States and exposed climb, where a fall would be fatal. No way to succeed in this little beauty, for sure!
But most of the climbing is on a large scale from 0 (most secure is not always) to 10 (terminal). If the limits of your study or your experience of climbing slide, then you can look at locations close to 0 on the serious scale. That is, if you deliberately try to do more serious way, in this case I recommend to be cautious - in fact, very careful.
But suppose you onsighted F6as 20 (5.10B) with success - is not on them. It is clear that the consolidated position (if your current experience). To state the obvious difficult, more difficult routes that you have to go climbing. But it is your choice whether you stay in your comfort zone or stop. Either way is fine as long as you want.
If your comfort zone, then three months later, he had climbed another 15 F6as, bringing the total number to 35 Or maybe you have to be done for five more - all successful - and I tried 10 different routes, which are much more. If you've done this, would your scorecard as follows: 25 F6A success. Four successful F6A + and a failure. F6bs three successful and two defeats. Now you can build a pyramid and press continue to use. Sure there are a few mistakes, but as long as the routes were relatively safe to fall, who cares? (Note: All routes are potentially dangerous. Make sure a competent court must warn you all the time. If you want a helmet, a bear.)
Can you see what's going on? Instead of not avoid like the plague, you accept it as a learning tool. As long as your "average" go up then it is relatively safe, which cares about the occasional failure?
Top climbers are not afraid of the (safe) failure. They know that the profit to remain at 100% of the time, in your comfort zone. The trick is not 'Next' to success. By the way, this tactic also works well in life! Make sure you can not, where the penalties are relatively mild. But the fear of failure (not the error itself) is the biggest thing stopping most people realize their full potential. There is an old movie called climbing, "Break on Through" and that is what we should all do. Break on Through to the other - not only in climbing but in life!
Michael (Mick) Ward has climbed since 1967. 56 years, is still around 5.12 or F7B +. He made many first ascents and mountaineering written for many magazines. He has to improve.